It got to the point where it was too dark, too rainy to camp, and anyway they've closed a lot of the campgrounds, so planning (not my forte) becomes more important. I picked a doozey of a place to stop, and still had the audacity to negotiate for a cheaper rate. Summer rate is $300+ but I got the Winter rate of only $155. heh heh. It's these vacation moments I'll remember forever...
Having said that- The place was brilliant. If you're ever in Banff, the place is worth a generous price. I got the nicest room, and looked out of my century old window at beutiful Bow Lake and the Bow Mountain in the morning. http://www.num-ti-jah.com/
This is the view of Bow Lake I woke up to:
Lake Louise could have been a big let-down, which fortunately, I mentally prepared for. Yup, the lake is pristine blue. Great Big Hairy Deal, as Garfield might have said. There was a horribly ostentatious hotel being banged and scraped together overlooking the lake, and a zillion picture snapping tourists. Not like me, of course. There was no canoe launch, so I didn't get to fulfill one dream of this trip- to kayak Lake Louise. I wasn't sorry enough though to cough up the $35/hour for a 40 year old canoe rental like the rest of the hordes.
I did learn about a tea house up the trail at the foot of the Glacier on the Plain of Six Glaciers trail. Most other trails were restricted to those in groups of 6 or more, due to the numerous Grizzlies around. It was hidden somewhere up high and too far away to see. I did have a little flashback to the time MJ and I from Pier 1 thought how fun it would be to walk from downtown SanFran to the Golden Gate, and how deceiving distances could be... but I ignored that thought, reminding myself that after all, I could not see my destination!
It was a good hike, with loads of rock and horse poop. It poured rain partway through, and people kept wishing me good luck, and invariably the answer to "how much farther?" was always met with, "Oh, quite a way from here yet." I didn't care. The farther I got from the actual lake and the crowds, the happier I was. At the top was a century old tea house, first established by Swiss guides as a halfway point for those wishing to go on to climb the nearby mountains. National Geographic provides details.
I paid $8.50 for a pretty damn plain hummus sandwhich and a few corn chips. I didn't care. I guess they figure you'll be so hungry by the time you get to the top, a dirty cracker will taste great. There was a nice fire going though, and I dried out for the much happier and easier trek down. I was mighty smug when I passed those basement crowds, I can tell you.
The rain came back, and I spent my second night camped out in my car. I think I'm starting to prefer it. There was no rain all over the tarp, no rain dowsing me as I packed out, getting my crap and me wetter and colder than necessary. It took no time at all to deflate the thermarest and stuff my down bag into its place. Chairs Up! Engage!
I'm in Golden, BC now "the town of Golden opportunity!". Ok. I did find a great free-trade coffee and Internet place, which is why I'm so chatty. 2 coffees, and I can yak like no other. I'm headed West today, still feeling bitter about having to miss Lake OHara in Yoho National Park. The road is closed, you have to book in advance, and oh- it's pouring. The Parks guy thought I'd have quite the challenge to convince Shuttle-Guy to strap my kayak to the bus anyway. A good day to keep driving I'd say. Today might be a Revelstoke day, and I'm itching to get biking again. Too much soggy weather lately.
